Normally Aspirated

As we mentioned, if you go to all this time and expense to do a swap, get the danged thing tuned properly! When you buy the Hondata K-Pro you have to buy it through a certified dealer. Choose a good local shop who also knows how to do the dyno-tune as well. We used Kinetic MotorWorks in Hamstead, NH. Rick is into making big HP numbers from imports, primarily for drag racing and he is very knowledgeable. Below is the before and after. The Before used the Hondata supplied tune for the K20A with a Toda header, Ingen intake, and Mugen exhaust on an ITR. You can see the tune is off in the 3500 to 5000 RPM range. The torque curve should be fairly flat over the entire RPM range and you can see the corresponding air/fuel ratio varying in step. After the tune you see an nice flat torque curve giving more power in the midrange and a good, safe air/fuel ratio. The VTEC switch over was change from 4000 in the base tune to 5000 as well. The difference in the drivability is very, very, noticable. The peak HP does not change much, but 217 WHP on a stock K20A factory spec'ed at 220BHP is not to shabby!

Normally Aspirated Dyno's (216.6 WHP 141.3 lb-ft torque)


The boosted version was also tuned at Kinetic MotorWorks. There really was no good base tune for this setup, but by playing around on the street we found that the Jackson Racing supercharger 10lb boost map supplied by Hondata worked the best, but no where near optimum. This meant quite a bit of tuning on the dyno to get it right. The results were better than we expected. It was obvious from the first hard pull on the high cam that the current 60mm Tanabe exhaust was restrictive (it was great for the NA version). By changing out the exhaust we could gain significant HP, but this is already more power than we can really use. You have to carefully modulate the throttle to avoid wheel spin in any of the lower gears even with the R compound 275 Hoosiers on! Some have called it a rocket ship.

Supercharger Dyno (339.8 WHP 215 lb-ft torque 10lbs boost)